Arbutin (arbutin) is a hydroquinone glycoside compound with the chemical name 4-Hydroquinone-alpha-D-glucopyranoside. It is found in plants such as bearberry and bilberry. It is an emerging natural whitening active substance that is non-irritating, non-allergic and highly compatible. The molecular structure of arbutin has two structural and functional functional groups: one is glucose residue; the other is phenolic hydroxyl group. The physical state of α-arbutin is white to light gray powder, which is easily soluble in water and ethanol.
Function
α-Arbutin has a good therapeutic effect on scars caused by ultraviolet burns, and has good anti-inflammatory, repairing and whitening effects. It can inhibit the production and deposition of melanin and remove spots and freckles.
The whitening mechanism of α-arbutin
The whitening mechanism of α-arbutin directly inhibits tyrosinase activity, thereby reducing melanin production, rather than reducing melanin production by inhibiting cell growth or tyrosinase gene expression. Since α-arbutin is a more efficient and safer whitening active substance, many domestic and foreign cosmetics companies have adopted α-arbutin instead of β-arbutin as a whitening additive.
stability
As α-arbutin is used more and more widely in cosmetics, research on its safety is gradually receiving more attention. α-Arbutin is a hydroquinone substance that is glycosylated under certain conditions. An easily breakable glycosidic bond is formed between the glucose molecules in the molecule and the hydroquinone. After the glycosidic bond is broken, arbutin can be decomposed Produce hydroquinones. Hydroquinone is a phenolic compound and is toxic. If taken in small amounts, it can cause symptoms such as headache, dizziness, tinnitus, and pale complexion. Contact with the skin will cause toxic effects on skin cells. Hydroquinone is the starting material for the synthesis of arbutin. In addition, after arbutin is decomposed by enzymes present in skin cells, a trace amount of hydroquinone is produced, which may have pathological effects after being used for a period of time. Before being used as a cosmetic additive, the hydroquinone content in the synthesized arbutin must be tested, and the necessary safety risk assessment and analysis must be made to ensure that the product is used under normal and reasonable conditions.
A study was conducted to compare the in vitro inhibitory effects and cytotoxicity of arbutin, vitamin C, vitamin C derivatives, hydroquinone, and kojic acid on tyrosinase activity and concluded that arbutin is the safest efficient.
